Spotlight on Ecuador

Quito 7

Climbing Quito’s Most Notorious Spire

We arrived in Quito last week, and as our bodies raced to produce more red blood cells and adapt to an altitude of 9,350 feet, we set out to explore Quito’s Centro Historico. It’s considered one of the “least altered and best preserved historic centers in the Americas” (thank you, Wikipedia) and so it’s rightly […]


Three Fantastic Surf Towns on a Budget

Thinking about or planning a surf trip to South America? Good luck! There’s something in the realm of 30,000 kilometers of coastline from which to base yourself. The list of places you can live and surf – whether you’re an expert bringing your own board or are planning to take lessons for the first time […]


CELTA Ecuador November-December 2012

If you’ve noticed the silence coming from this little thrifty drifter scrap of the universe and thought oh no, perhaps those drifters have given up, thrown in the towel, or lost the motivation to update their blog, ye’d be wrong! We beach-bound drifters have been living a dream a bit removed from modern conveniences such […]


Ecuador’s Ruta del Condor: Flirting With Fourteen Thousand Feet

What do you do when your visa is running out and you only have time for one good backcountry trek in Ecuador? You might decide on the Ruta del Condor since the raves across the Internet are consistent and the photos are impressive. But will you pay for a guide, hundreds of pounds of gear, […]

Chugchilán to Quilotoa Loop Clouds

Gasping for Air on the Quilotoa Loop

The Quilotoa Loop is the name Ecuador guide books give to a (usually) self-guided tour circuit through a remote area of the country’s Western cordillera. Earlier this month, we “did” the loop, mostly by foot. Here’s a run-down of our day to day adventures in this breathtaking (literally) corner of the Andes. Day 1 – […]

Spotlight on Chile


The Family Visits Us in Chile… Again!

After a few days getting acquainted with the salar de Uyuni, it was time to go to Chile, (for the third time!) We had to make it to Santiago to meet my parents and sister, who were coming to visit, but first we spent a few days hanging out on the beach in Arica. Our whirlwind […]


2,500 Miles in Two Weeks – Phew!

While enjoying our last few weeks in Valparaíso (and wondering what we would do next), a very alluring email appeared in my inbox. Paul and Renée, the caretakers of Casa Amelia in Huanchaco, Peru were heading back to Holland for the month of July and asked if would we like to come stay the month […]


Surf Competition at El Gringo

We love Arica – a lot. Which is why we made sure to spend a couple of days there during our 2,500 mile slog up the Pacific coast of Chile and Peru. For a second time, we parked at Sunny Days Hostal, where you see me below (on the roof!) enjoying a cold, crisp glass […]


Valparaíso and a Visit From Someone Special

It had been ten months since seeing Adam’s parents (10 months and 3 days, to be exact), so we were excited – really excited – to have them for a nine-day visit. It was a week of festive, celebratory meals, sightseeing, and just hangin’ out. We had two birthdays and one anniversary during that time, too. (ok, […]


Valparaíso: A Pretty Port and Piles of Poop

After very little sleep in Santiago, I conked out and drooled a little on Adam’s shoulder for the hour and a half bus ride to Valparaíso. Adam says I missed out on vineyards upon vineyards dripping with fat grapes ready for the harvest. I’m sad I missed it – especially since after doing the same […]